To Dong Ha

Leaving Hanoi involved being at the Hostel in the late afternoon. So, we spent the day wandering and then returned for showers shortly before leaving.

The first leg was provided by a mini-van that picked us up at the hostel, along with several others. From there we went across town to a highway bus that provides "hop on, hop off" service. This is a service where tourists get off in various towns and then return to their travels later. In our case we were only going to Dong Ha.

The ride in the highway bus was interesting but uncomfortable. It was a relatively modern bus with air-conditioning; however, we had trouble reclining our seats. This made sleeping difficult. At some point, Debra, seeing the relief driver sleeping in the isle, decided to do the same. In several hours the isle was filled with sleepers.

The next morning the bus arrived in Hué. This surprised both Debra and me because this meant that the bus had passed through Dong Ha without our being notified. The drop off at the hotel in Hué bothered me in another way. It is a common practice but it always irritates me. The drop off was at a hotel that the bus company had an arrangement with. They exclusively drop there and as a result, they get a cut of the fees. The hotel people were even permitted to come on o the bus and tout their hotel and tour packages.

Well, we got off and started walking. We were planning to walk to the bus station, thinking that it was only 2 Km distant, but, on reexamination of the map, discovered that it was significantly further (at this point we had already walked about 4 Km... in the wrong direction [not opposite, just wrong]).

At that point I started negotiation with about three cabbies who showed up out of the ether. We then got a ride to the bus station that sent buses to Dong Ha. At this point the cabbie drove to a bus and started negotiating. Watch for this game, the cabdriver will steer you somewhere, in this case a bus, for you it can be a hotel, and then start negotiations for what he thinks you will be willing to pay (remember, he has just seen in your wallet when you paid him). This price will be more that customary because he plans to get a cut.

The negotiated price came to 100,000 Dong (and please do not be like the rude tourist I heard say to a clerk at the hostel, "dong, dung, whatever you people call money here...,"no, she was not American; yes, she was just plain rude). I responded by walking off. At that point the cabbie lost his cut and the price immediately dropped to 60,000 Dong. I still wasn't going for it and continued into the ticket office. The posted price (thank God they post everything in both Vietnamese and French)was 27,000 Dong; however, the ticket clerk refused to sell us a ticket. She said that we had to negotiate with the drivers (keep in mind that my French is just plan bad). We ended up at a price of 30,000 Dong. It was still more than what was posted but a lot less than where we started. I felt I was being cheated but not fleeced.

Dong Ha from the Hotel window

That ride was another mini-bus with people hopping on and off through the ride. It ended in another dusty dirt-lot bus station. From there we walked the short distance to the, "DMZ café." When we arrived we were told by the owner that he had no room; but, he took us to another, nearby, hotel. This hotel was normally more expensive but he negotiated that they would charge us the same as he would have.

From there we returned to his office and discussed our plans for the next day with him. Dinner was a small Vietnamese street café.

An evening visitor